Frames, boxes
Plain miter
Two 45° ends. Pretty, and weak if it is only glue.
Use when
- The corner is light and you will add a spline, a key, or a fastener.
Don’t use when
- Do not use a plain miter as a structural corner.
- Keep
- Waste, hatched on the drawing
- Dimension
- Long parts are broken. The 1 in bar is true scale.
Stock
Thickness steppers move by 1/16 in, or 0.5 mm. You can type 3/4 or 1-1/8.
- A plain miter on a structural corner will open. Add a spline, a key, or a lock.
Sizes
| Mark | Size | Rule |
|---|---|---|
| Miter | 45° | 45° on each piece for a 90° corner |
| Stock thickness | 3/4 in | Both pieces the same, or the faces will step |
| Glue surface | 3/4 in | End grain to end grain. It is alignment, not a structural joint |
Cut sequence
1Shoot both miters
45° each. Stock 3/4 in. A shooting board beats a freehand paring for this.
Stop when: The corner closes with no light and the faces flush.
2Glue with a clamp across the corner
End grain is thirsty. Size it with thin glue first, then glue it.
3Dry-fit, then glue
Close the joint dry. Check that shoulders and faces meet, then glue. If this is a frame or a box, check both diagonals before the glue grabs.
Stop when: Dry-fit is tight with hand pressure, square, and the diagonals match.
Glue
End grain to end grain
Strength
light
Movement
A plain miter hides end grain and holds almost nothing. Fine for a light frame or a trim corner.